Cape 2 Cairo 2 Cape Blog

• Had a spectacular 540km ride down south to Cape Town … beautiful part of the world … Clanwilliam, Citrusdal.
• Breakfast at Vanrynsdorp and Jacques (our topless waitress).
• Andre du Plessis rode from Stellenbosch on his Triumph to meet us (KTM at home?) at Vanrynsdorp. Andre did the up trip and decided to pop in for a few 100kms to join us for the last leg. Thanks Andre – good to see you again.
• Arrived at Cape Town 14h30 … to family and friends who eagerly awaited our arrival, and to interested fans who came to have a look and share our experiences with us!

So many people to thank and acknowledge for their contributions to this trip…

• Every person who supported us on the blog – the comments that spurred us on and the special words that kept us close to our loved ones.
• The fantastic people we met on this 16 750 km trip:

                -         People who assisted us with all our paperwork, documentation, border crossings

                -         People who accommodated us in every possible way (restaurants, accommodation, “immigration & customs”, local mechanics, and the list goes on)

                -         The generosity found in Africa

                -         People who went out of their way to ensure that we had the best comfort, the best plate of food, the best advice and the best service.

• To ISRI who sponsored the seats in the bus. We rode, sat and slept in absolute comfort … through the treacherous Marsabit road … we could flop down in a chair equivalent in comfort to out Lazy Boys at home. Thank you

• To the riders:

               -         You were all that C2C was about … you were the purpose of the trip! Well done on your amazing accomplishment and cherish these memories and lessons learnt and take it to wherever you decide to go next

               -         Your team spirit and the group dynamics … made for great family spirit.

• To the crew:

• Ray:

Lasting images and reflections:

• The 100s of kids who waved at us along the way
• The few vagabonds throwing rocks at us while passing through on our motorcycles
• The Cairo to Aswan night ride
• Brian’s busy orifices at the camp out on the Marsabit Road
• Jacques’ special touch of capuccino and rose petals in the middle of the bush and desert
• Our first bush camp night, all sitting around a fire and under the stars, telling our stories and responding to Ray’s spur of the moment topics
• Kenny’s marriage proposal to Marlene the morning before hitting the tar road on the Marsabit
• Arriving at the tar road on Marsabit and the guys kissing the road
• Riding the windy roads in Ethiopia – green vegetation … black sky
• Rwanda in all its beauty and glory..a stunning country with amazing vegetation and incredible gorillas
• Beggar who only had a palm and no fingers
• Brian vomiting out the bus in Alex
• Alta’s toilet experience in Alex
• Sandstorm tyre change in Sudan
• Baby gorilla swinging upside down metres from us as he impressed his mom
• Young gorilla bonding with Jessica; tugging at her jeans and camera string and resting his arm on her thigh
• Arch in the headlights on the mud road at Jinja with three bikes in the mud
• K lying on the road between Lusaka and Jinja … in the rain and the traffic rumbling past him..finally arriving at the hotel covered in mud (from head to toe)
• Sakkie slipping on the diesel and getting back on his motorcycle like a champion
• The poverty of our continent
• The rich diversity of environments, cultures and people found in Africa..WOW

On a personal note…

Riding into Cape Town was emotional for me, when we saw Table Mountain 60kms outside of Cape Town … the tears started…

16 750 kms together for 47 days … and it was coming to an end. Our days had strict routine and a plan … and that was to become a thing of the past!

We had got so close to each other – we knew the foibles, the idiosyncrasies of each individual … we had developed our own vernacular … “GGGHello, GGGwhat do we do today?” “Wow” “Horrific”. We checked up on each other’s health status … we knew who was grumpy – who was manic…

We got to Cape Town and the 10 months of planning and the 2 months of major environmental input and information had come to an end.

In Church Street, we shook hands and hugged – it was all over … beer in hand and the great South African accent babbled in the background.

I feared making contact with friends and family … because by so doing, I would be stepping out of this bubble I had lived in for 50 days … and once I am out of that bubble … it will close behind me and it will all be over.

Tears of joy, exhausted and triumphant … I sign off …
36 000 words to describe what we have done and only … two words…

Thank you:

• The crew for your support and behind the scenes work: a clean bus everyday; the rose; the petals; the cappuccino; “I am dreaming of a white Christmas”; Seal’s “Crazy”
• Cytech … for making sure this happened without a glitch
• The riders … the laughter, the jokes, the kilometres
• Ray … thank you for encouraging me to do this … you made it sound so simple … and you have given me a memory that even in with the onset of Alzheimer’s … I will remember ALL.

Have a good rest Ray … take care of your health …this is your time to rest and spend with family.

• Jess … thank heavens you were there … we needed to balance out the testosterone … it was good to have a lady on the trip … toilet buddies … puncture back up, back up … and
• Ken … in a heartbeat you said we should do this … this is something I will never forget … and if this is a test of how good a team we are … well … we did it … Thanks Kennet … I am truly grateful to have shared this ‘Bucket List” adventure with you

Signing off

Marlene

10h30

17^th September 2011

 

Goodluck to Archie, Ig and Andre who are planning on leaving at 3am tomorrow morning (Saturday, 17 September) from Cape Town, with the IVECOs, back to Johannesburg. Safe journey and thank you for all your assistance and support

We were supposed to have a 6:30am rendez-vous at Wimpy for a coffee but there was a bit of confusion; most riders were there earlier and others were still getting ready for the anticipated time. I was standing outside my room in the freezing cold, looking around for the IVECO Headhunter to put my luggage in, but apparently it had already left for Wimpy (to organize us coffee ahead of time). The Silverback crew (Ig and Andre) came back to the hotel to drop off their room keys and in the same instance were told to pick up Marlene and her luggage. Thankfully, I took the opportunity to ride with since I wasn’t riding with Ullie this morning.

After a quick coffee at Wimpy, we left Mariental for our expected 534kms to Springbok. It was a very cold morning for the riders; starting at 9ºC and still lingering on at 18ºC. Even Ninja Turtle (Kenny) said he was the coldest he had ever been! All the bikers had one thing in mind: please let my motorcycle make it to Cape Town. Little by little, with wear and tear, some of the motorcycles are experiencing mishaps (Sakkie, Ande and Kenny’s motorcycles actually doing very well compared to the others)…whether it is the fuel pump and exhaust with the KTM, Brian’s 800 spracket, slow punctures or the speedometer messing with Ullie’s ABS.

The plan: Mariental (- Keetmanshoop) to Gunau (where we would have breakfast; almost 300kms in distance) – Noordoewer  and onto Springbok (534kms in total). We passed the Brukarros Mountains on our right hand side with the Karas at Keetmanshop as well as the Groot Karasberge on our left hand side and onto Grunau for a much anticipated breakfast (and last petrol till Noordoewer, the border post). James was ahead of all the motorcycles and had gone on ahead.

It was short, yellow savannah on either side with orange plateaus rising in the distance. It was quite a sight. My thought of Namibia was pure desert. As we closed in on the border post, colourful flowers became more prominent with black, rocky mounds in the distance.

At the border post, crossing the Orange River to the South African immigration & customs office (left side)At the border post, crossing the Orange River to the South African immigration & customs office (right side of bridge)

We started seeing scattered patches of white, yellow, orange, red and violet flowers (Garth, as he usually does, giving us full-on information about the where’s, how’s and what’s of the flowers); giving us a taste of what Namaqualand’s beauty and hype is all about. The border posts on either side did not give us any trouble at all. Of course, everyone (especially the crew and the peeps who did the up and down trip) became a lot more upbeat, feeling closer and closer to homestead. We happily reunited with James after getting through into South Africa.

I jumped on Ullie’s 1200 after the border post, happy as can be. Going through Namaqualand, K’s KTM’s exhaust fell off and was ridden over by a truck in the process. We had to upload K’s bike onto the trailer (but this time, having only his front tyre hanging on the strapped-on ladder and his rear tyre dragging behind) and K had to, once more, join the passengers on the bus. K was a trooper; although royally disappointed and sure that this was the end of his trip.

The valleys (with the scattered flowers) and windy roads through the mountains were absolutely incredible and we arrived at our accommodation, Kleinplasie Guesthouse, in the early afternoon, just before sun set. The accommodation overlooked the town of Springbok and mountains in the distance (apparently, the flowers were in full bloom and covered the entire mountainside just a week ago). Some went to do ATM rounds, others got petrol and Brian (as he usually does), went to get his chilli biltong.

While Ray, Archie, K and Ig worked on K’s KTM (stripping the broken down Cytech KTM of its rear exhaustion manifold and re-fitted it as needed onto K’s motorcycle), the rest chilled drinking the rest of last night’s beers, did their washing and showered for the night’s dinner plans.

We all went for dinner at a hot spot in Springbok (which I cannot remember the name for the life of me..forgive me) and were invited by K, who was a reborn rider again; having had fixed his bike ready to depart the next morning. We had a wonderful time, chit chit-chatting the early evening away and celebrating with a Springbok tot. Before returning back to the Guesthouse, we visited the Springbok Lodge and Restaurant museum (as recommended by Garth) across the street; which was incredible and well worth it (biggest stone collection I have ever seen; books; fossils; pictures; postcards; antiques; and a lot more).

All in all, the day ended with everyone well fed and in high spirits for the last leg of the race back to Cape Town.

Fabulous Four became the Three Musketeers:

Andy, James, K and Ken decided to beat the dirt road to Windhoek. Ken managed a whole 20kms and decided that the fog and the sand was too much for him … and returned to Bundu n Sea to meet the rest of the group. He decided that he wasn’t going to take any risk … and went for the safe option. The guys endured sand and graders and fech-fech … but the visuals were absolutely spectacular. Once they got through the fog … it all opened up and then they hit sand. James had a bit of a fall … but all fine.

Jess rode on the back of Ullie and she said she was singing “Gloria Hallelujah” as they travelled through 80kms of fog and cold weather. Her jeans were soaked and visibility was limited. Jessica had a freezing and traumatizing ride in the fog but lit up as the sun shined through the fog and broke through the clouds. All in all had a great and fascinating ride … on roads that were a pleasure to ride.

We all met at Safari Lodge in Windhoek where we had a quick lunch.

Got to River Lodge in Mariental. Crew went and bought all we needed to braai … and set up braai at one of the camp sites – the “tjops and boerie” sizzling away. Halfway through – we discovered that we were at a pre-booked site and we had to speed the process up a tad. The ‘guests’ patiently waited and then set up camp – but we fed their foxy copious amounts of boerie … and they then joined our party

Andy, Arch and Ken helped Ken (rather – Ken was watching) put two new tyres on the 800.

2^nd last briefing … the time is running out. With Johnny Walker, we made final arrangements for tomorrow.

Coffee at 06h30 at the Wimpy; Breakfast at Grunau and cross [slideshow] the border and off to Springbok

Woke up for a 7am breakfast at the Bundu n See Hotel on a very cold and foggy morning (apparently it is always like this in Swakopmund and sometimes even mistier in the mornings). We waited to hear of news of whether we’d be able to stay the second night at the same hotel; being that there were no prior arrangements made. Everyone could stay, but Sakkie and K (with single rooms) had to change rooms and share a communal bathroom and most unfortunately two of us had to find alternative accommodation for the second night. This ended up being Marlene and Kenny, being the accommodating couple they are. Kenny took the initiative to call a hotel (Atlantic guest villa 3kms away from us with a view on the ocean) and made arrangements accordingly.

While K, Ande and James decided to test out the Nauklift Road and Kochmans Hoglend (so as to take the short-cut to Windhoek the next day), Brian, Sakkie and Ullie left for Walvis Bay.

I stayed at the Hotel to work on the blog, as did Marlene on her side. Archie desperately tried fixing his motorcycle but it was far beyond repair at this point. He spent the afternoon “sulking” (and eating his sweets); watching tv with Ray in their hotel room.

Around lunch time, K, Ande and James came back from their excursion. I hopped on the back of Ande’s motorcycle and together with K, we went to Walvis Bay to visit around. It was an amazing contrast seeing the desert dunes on one side and the ocean raging onto the beach on the other. It was a cold ride to Walvis Bay, but we were soon able to warm up at a very cozy and cute restaurant (Anker) at the Walvis Bay Waterfront; where we ran into Ullie, Brian and Sakkie finishing up with their lunch.

While Ullie, Sakkie and Brian returned back to Swakopmund for a leisure afternoon, K, Ande and I decided to take the opportunity to visit Dune 7 (a young dune with an oasis lying at the foot of it). We decided to take another way back to Swakopmund (on the opposite side of the dunes that were overlooking the ocean-side), with dunes and desert extending far off into the distance. The wind was blowing, whipping sand onto the tar road. We took an easy ride back, refueled and returned to the hotel (while K went on to visit Kenny & Marlene at their guest villa).

It was a very relaxing afternoon. The motorcycle riders had worked on their bikes and prepared them for the last leg of the “Recce Run” through Namibia. Everyone took the afternoon to walk about in the town, do a bit of shopping and take the opportunity to exchange money at the bank. Jacques had a trim and a pedicure of course!

We ended up going back to the same restaurant we had eaten dinner the night before..it was such a good vibe and yummy food we thought why not (unfortunately, Kenny and Marlene, did not join us but enjoyed themselves at another restaurant across from their hotel).

The plan tomorrow: Swakopmund – Usakosakaibib – Okahandja – Windhoek (Safari Hotel for lunch and regrouping) – Mariental (River Chalets for the night’s accommodation)

03h00 Iveco’s staff – Gert Bronkhorst Snr and Gert Bronkhorst Jnr arrived at our lodge to return the vehicle. They drove from Rundu and en route the radiator packed up … so they had one delivered and did the repairs on the side of the road. The truck – Silverback now has to be started with 5 x codes and then the electronics are kicked in and we can move.

• Arch’s BMW has started motor problems – it was put in the back of the truck and we had the company of Arch in Headhunter.
• Stopped at Omaruru for cappuccino and apfelstrudel.
• Stopped at a factory that makes wooden carvings – true art.

Got to Swakopmund … most of the town is booked out due to a conference … but managed to get accommodation for the night – will see what we can do for tomorrow evening

Freezing cold – we are wearing slops and socks – keeping up with German tradition.

Off to Kúkies for grand dinner of Eisbein and fish.

Woke up in a stunning and stylish room (in a tranquil Etosha Pan game lodge), with a view on green lawn and dry, harsh bush terrain in the near distance. The squirrels and mongoose were out running and playing out in the lawn, up the trees and in-between one’s legs as one walked up the pool area, past the bar and up to the breakfast buffet restaurant. Hard to believe we are here…for this kind of luxury lodge would have cost us a fortune if Jacques hadn’t worked his magic last night.

Sakkie:

Game drive starting at 6:30am

Rugby game (SA vsWales)

Changed his tyre with the assistance of Kenny, Ray, K and Archie

A well deserved nap

Watched a bit of SA Idols

All in all, a very good day wouldn’t you say

James:

Game drive starting at 6:30am

Rugby game

A good lunch at the pool area with his mates

A well deserved nap

“Private conversation with Brian” and other mates just outside their luxury room, overlooking the Blesboks and squirrels on the lawn

Brian:

Game drive starting at 6:30am

Rugby game

Visited Onguma Lodge (The Fort; Tree top; Bush Camp; and Tent Camp)

Chicken ceasar salad at the pool area for lunch

A refreshing swim

“Private conversation with Brian” and other mates just outside their luxury room, overlooking the Blesboks and squirrels on the lawn

Ande:

Game drive starting at 6:30am

Rugby game (SA won by 1 point)

Visited the Onguma Lodge which he thought was absolutely stunning

Visited the Reptile Park at our own lodge

A refreshing swim in the pool

Nice, luxury shower

Marlene:

Game drive starting at 6:30am

Saw beautifully orchestrated and synchronized pronking of Springboks..was amazing (must have been a sign of SA winning the rugby later on!)

Spa treatment: pedicure

The beauty specialist had to use a grinder, chisel and who knows-what for two hours but she finally turned Marlene’s feet into silky smooth baby feet (with red toe nail polish may I add)

Sat around a spoke rubbish all afternoon

Tipped K on places to visit in South Africa before he returns home

Kenny:

Game drive starting at 6:30am

Rugby game

Wanted to sleep but didn’t

Washing

Took a dip in the pool

“Showed the guys how to change a BMW 1200 rear tyre without dirtying his hands,” so he says…

Good Day all in all

Mouth on fire at dinner (again..reminds me of Rwanda..pili pili baby)

Ig:

RUGBY, RUGBY, RUGBY and some moreRUGBY..oh yes, and I little bit of SA Idols

Jacques:

Lovely breakfast

Rugby game

Spa treatment: pampered with an absolutely fantastic massage

Relaxing day on luxury bed

Ray:

Lovely breakfast amongst squirrels

Waiting in anticipation of news on the IVECO Silverback; stressing as always

Rugby game

Assisted with Sakkie’s puncture

Visited Onguma Lodge

“Tried to solve the problems of the world”

Waiting for the IVECO Silverback

Was definitely on a roll at dinner, cracking jokes

Ullie:

Game drive starting at 6:30am

Long break

Visited the Reptile Park

No Rugby watching

Gym and a refreshing dip in the pool

Archie:

Rugbygame

“Swimming with the swans and met Rod Stewart”

Helped fix Sakkie’s puncture

Visited Onguma Lodge

Stripped his BMW starter motor; hopes it can make Swakopmund so he can have it welded there

Garth:

Game drive starting at 6:30am (saw a rare occasion of the Etosha Pan being filled with water)

Rugby of course

Family communication

Giving Jessica magic pills

Well deserved nap

K:

Game drive that was EXCELLENT

Saw lions in the wild for the first time (8 cups and 4 adults hunting wildebeest unsuccessfully)

Springboks were amazing: like they were “frozen in the air”

Visited Onguma Lodge

Amazing, nay Equisite décor..which gave him “long pleasure”; the attention to detail was true European-like (antique doors)..definitely will come back; amazed that it was completely empty; void of any guests

“Was Kenny’s tool boy,” so Kenny says of course, while assisting Sakkie with his puncture

Waiting for the Internet connection to come back…only got a smile as a reply from the reception…still waiting

Andre:

Game drive

Wonderful

Etosha Pan was filled with water: a rare and exceptional occasion

Lions were a treat

Rugby game

Happy but will not comment!

Visited Onguma Lodge

Exquisite: real African feel

Helped, well more like took pictures of Sakkie changing his tyre

Chatted the afternoon away with Sakkie

Great buffet dinner

Jessica:

Lovely breakfast; sharing with the squirrels and birds

Visited theReptilePark

Enjoyed a Chicken Ceasar salad

Had issues with room maintance

Isn’t it funny how the problem always seems to stop when the maintenance guy shows up! Ended up fixing the problems myself..hehehe

Rested, relaxed and rested some more

Managed to get the IVECO Silverback at the lodge at 3am (A very big thank you to Gert Bronkhorst, from IVECO Ongwediva, and his father for all their assistance and hard work. Much appreciated!)

Lovely R&R day for all

Breakfast at 07h00

Oh NO!

At breakfast K asked Ken whether Ken had ‘taken’ his toiletries bag out of his room as a joke. Turns out that Sakkie realised that his camera and 1 x glove had been removed from his tank bag during the night. K went to re-check his room for the toiletries bag and the discovered Sakkie’s glove lying at the floor below the window. So someone had stolen K’s bag using Sakkie’s glove!

Arch also noticed that his top box had been tampered with

Jacques had collected all the accommodation money – put it next to his bed and gone to the bar. Garth shared a room with Jacques and when he used the key to open the unit – no go. Maintenance had to come open the door … so someone had tried to break into the room.

During the night, both James and Sakkie were up looking out their windows having had a restless night’s sleep – the ‘baddies’ were on the prowl.

Spoke to the manager – he was unsympathetic regarding our concerns and told us “this is Africa – you need to lock your valuables away”! We have done 13 000 kms through Africa with no problems … we know we have to be vigilant…

At breakfast we hooked up with a group of guys who are taking really old cars through to Cairo … already they have blown gaskets, replaced gear boxes … but they are on the move … and they are organised.

Silverback has to be left behind in Rundu – hopefully between Iveco and the kind mechanic (who spent a good 5 hours on the vehicle) – will sort out the electrical problem. We hope to get the vehicle delivered to Namatoni / Windhoek / Johannesburg. So all 7 of us in Headhunter … 400 kms to Kempenski Lodge.

Grootfontein – we stopped off for a runaway lunch at the Spar. Was a mind-blowing experience going to a shop of this size. We haven’t been in a convenience store of this magnitude … it was hard to choose … 8 variations of Cadbury’s and koeksisters and well… everything. Tinned dog food expensive!

Arrived at Kempenski Mokuti Lodge at 14h00. Paradise! Sat at the thatch having beers and tea. Fed the squirrels and starlings by hand while the blesbok grazed 20m away and the mongoose in close range.

Medical Update:

• Sakkie’s elbow and buttocks are on the mend … he is bandaged up and said that his methyolate experience was mind-‘blowing’
• Andy’s spider bite looks better
• Ullie rubs his shoulder a lot
• Jess has the runs from consuming litres of water during her river rafting experience.

Excellent accommodation … we have truly stepped into heaven … and we will be here for 2 nights.

Great buffet supper … exotic to say the least.

Tomorrow: game drives at 06h00 and then a bit of spa and time to chill!