Sep 5 2011

Senga Bay R&R, 5 September 2011 (Day 36)

Everyone woke up at their ease, with no call outs, shouts, alarms or wake up calls. Of course, being so disciplined and highly attuned to our usual premature departures, we all woke up quite early (despite our need for sleep).

 

The view, even from the breakfast table, is unbelievable. We are on a cliff, overlooking Lake Malawi, with fishermen boats in the distance, baboons playing in the yard (and trying their luck with the open kitchen door) and bougainvillaea radiating next to the rock pool.

 

While Ray and the crew are busy working on the IVECOs, the riders are also working on their motorcycles, ensuring that all is well before our anticipated departure from Senga Bay tomorrow morning. After the repairs, some decided to go to the local market while others took it easy at the hotel.

Much to our delight, we are finally reunited with James, who arrived early this afternoon with his GS 1100 and having accrued a speeding fine. Everyone is very happy to see James back and looking forward to riding with him all the way down to Cape Town.

We all ate a light lunch next to the pool, having a laugh and enjoying our day of R&R. Brian had a much needed haircut and beard trim by Jacques. This afternoon, we are planning on having a pool party (skinny dippers welcomed!) and drinks. Marlene and I organized for a local to carve key rings made of wood with one side having a motorcycle on it and the other side “c2c” on it. They will be distributed to all the participants this afternoon.

Tomorrow’s plan: Good-bye Malawi; Drive to Zambia (about 500kms) to end up at Bridge Camp on the river.


Sep 5 2011

4 Sept 2011 Karonga -> Senga Bay (Day 35)

Breakfast was a torrid affair … served 14 of us ONE-BY-ONE. When the Frisco was finished … well it was finished! We were only allowed 1 x egg + an excuse for a sausage (Arch said his sausage was the biggest) + 2 ‘toasties’ aka toast. So after much negotiating – we got the 2 x eggs and sausages were left for the next sucker. What the issue with eggs is – we will never know

Lock and Load = 07h30 … but we left way before that!
Travelled in a southerly direction down the west coast of Lake Malawi. The size and magnitude of this lake is awesome … beautiful scenery…

  • Passed a funeral … coffin on the back of a bakkie … melancholic voices and could see the pain on those faces.
  • Went through rubber plantations … fascinating to see how the trees are bled for rubber
  • Headhunter was trying to pass a long truck … the road was narrow and as we started overtaking – the truck snaked towards us twice. There was utter silence as we seemed to stop in time … the truck was cms away from us … we thought we were going to make contact … was hair-raising and when we finally passed … Marlene was leaning to the furthest back corner of the bus thinking how she should have gone on a bike …

Sakkie has his jacket on this morning. Garth did a great clean-up job and put synthetic skin onto Sak’s arm.

Jacques not feeling too good today … bit gray-looking and for the early part of the day our vehicle was without song and cheer. When he started to recover … we covered some really controversial topics … too dicey for print! It’s an interesting phenomenon … 8th hour in back-up – talk about ‘strange’ things. 14th hour – mayhem prevails … maybe the symptoms of cabin fever.

Dear Diary,

I am really enjoying the second round of this trip … all a different experience. I miss Dot a lot  – but fortunately we speak on the phone often. I am tired at night … but enjoy the jibes with the guys … Ken never stops.

Arch

Dear Diary,

Have some really good riding. I hope I have seen the last of my punctures … Good to be on the roads that I am familiar with.

Andy

Dear Diary

All going well. Going to be good to see James again. Bike going well. I have made a point to wear  different khaki – everyone thinks I only have one set of clothes. Have had a safe ride … must just check out my sprocket.

Brian

Dear Diary

Africa is great. The guys regularly pull pranks on me … at Tan Swiss … I arrived for breakfast and as I walked in the entire group jumped up when Ray shouted “Lock ‘n Load!” … I just gave them the universal hand signal for “VERY funny” … was a good laugh. Great to see the game on the side of the road as we ride … Africa is definitely worth another visit … and another.

“K”

Dear Diary

I am soooo into this. I get very tired at night … but during the day I don’t react to the distance … 600km … 800 km … whatever. My knee is better after Numb Nuts parked right in front of me and caused me to fall! Keen to hook up with James again

Ken

Dear Diary

Had a bad fall – but I am fortunate to have come off as lightly as I did. Beers taste good … but somehow when we eat so early … can’t get anywhere near hangover status. I have a few bashes in my bike … maybe I will have them repaired … or … just keep it this was – “Lekker houding en karakter”. I don’t like waking up early … and somehow it’s been ok

Saks

Dear Diary

Hell – I feel like an old man … the shoulder giving me hassles. Luckily my ankle seems to be on the mend. This has been a great trip … guys are good to be with – lots of teasing and banter happening… I have had some really good laughs … NB – will tie my top box securely.

Ullie

In two weeks we will see Table Mountain … it has all gone so quickly … some parts are in a blur … we lived it – yet we can’t remember it. Good to have written a journal to document all the events

[slideshow]

Got to Livingstonia Hotel – lots of conferences on the go – so they never had accommodation for us. Moved to Safari Resort next door … this is paradise.
We have chalets up in the rocks overlooking the lake. Rock rabbits and squirrels watch your activity and the mozzies are a thrum in your ears throughout the night.
Slept to the sound of the waves and the villagers in the distance

Sep 5 2011

Baobab Forest, 03 September 2011 (Day 34)

After a quick breakfast at the Tan Swiss hotel, just outside the Mikumi National Park (Tanzania), we were back on the road again. Once again, what was supposed to be a 6:30am (SA time) breakfast and 7:30am departure ended up being a 6:20am breakfast and 6:30am exit (prompted of course by our chief in command, Ray Muller).

 

Feeling a lot better than the day before (having started a malaria treatment just in case), I jumped at the back of Ullie. We have been on the road two days in a row and the group is certainly feeling the aftermath. We were definitely looking forward to some R&R time in Malawi (in two-day’s time). The plan was to ride until the border (about 524kms) and find accommodation just before entering Malawi at a tea plantation.

 

The road was absolutely spectacular. Riding on a motorcycle gives you a whole different perspective altogether. You are alert at all times and enjoy an array of aromas that you otherwise don’t get to experience when travelling inside a vehicle. You can smell firewood and charcoal burning, mealies cooking on the grill and rubber tyres smouldering as trucks and busy taxis zoom by you.

 

We rode through windy roads surrounded by hills, dominated by an incredible Baobab forest. The amazing display of grey baobab trees against the yellow savannah and orange soil was a real treat.

 

Although Tanzania was very dry, we could enjoy a manifestation of spring colours (green, yellow, orange and red trees and bushes) all along our journey to the border. The terrain was always different, from bushes and trees to marshlands, to savannah, to planted forests.

 

We passed a very dry section of yellow, savannah hill tops at one point; thorny greyish trees that looked like cobwebs on a yellow canvas. It was extremely warm; almost reminding us of our passage through Egypt and Sudan..giving Sakkie some unwanted flashbacks and Kenny discomfort to say the least!!

 

Turning left towards the Malawian border, we started climbing up into the highlands; with endless banana and tea plantations, enjoying a bountiful display of valleys and ridges in the distance. Sakkie, unfortunately, had an accident as we were climbing up the mountain. Losing a minute of his concentration, he rode on-top diesel and slid on the tar. He picked up the pieces while Andre sanded down his tyres and got back on his bike like a champion.

 

The plan all of a sudden changed and we found ourselves coming to the Tanzanian (Mbeya) and Malawian border after 645kms. After getting our passports and visas stamped for exit and entry and after changing currency, we hit the road to Karonga. Hello Malawi!

 

Sometimes we drive so quickly and for so many hours that we forget to appreciate or even realize that we have yet again crossed another border and another country. It’s only when we stop or arrive at our destination that we truly start reminiscing on our journey and realize how privileged we are to be able to travel Africa and see and experience what not many people have had the opportunity or ever will get the opportunity to see and experience in their lifetime. We are truly blessed.

Malawian people are very friendly. We were greeted by many smiling and cheering crowds; especially the children. As the sun was setting, we passed by children playing football (soccer), virgins walking the streets in their white dresses and crowns and trucks loaded with passengers and nuns singing songs.

 

We all regrouped at a petrol station while Ray went to see about a place to stay. Our usual hang-out, everyone made themselves comfortable, sitting on the ground at the station, sipping on some fanta and coca-cola. Ray organized us a last minute place to stay, the Sumuka Inn, in Karonga, Malawi. 

I had ridden my record of 700kms today (Yippeee, although my butt wouldn’t agree!). Thanks to Ullie, we arrived safely and had recovered his top case that fell off the bike when we hit a huge pothole just after we entered Malawi.

 

Everyone gathered in the hallway (our designated bar area) and sipped on a few beers, joking around, reminiscing about the day’s events, and praising Sakkie for taking his fall “like a man”. Ullie spontaneously started the floating trophy procedure. He gave his trophy to Kenny (who had literally changed colours with the heat). Jacques offered his trophy to Sakkie for being a tough boy and just because he felt bad for his injuries.

 

Marlene gave her trophy to Ray in hopes that the man will calm down and more specifically slow down. Archie gave his floating trophy motorcycle to Marlene, just because! Ray offered his trophy (g-string) to Ullie because he hadn’t listened the first time about tying down his top box. 

The plan for tomorrow: ride another 600kms from Karonga to Mzuzu to Nkhata Bay, to Salima and on to Senga Bay at the Livingstonia Hotel (Sunbird). Only then will we get our R&R time. Rocknroll is predicted for 7am tomorrow morning.

After a yummy dinner, we all headed to our rooms and passed out. Brian had the Chambo fish and after using his fork and knife, resumed to his hands and teeth, desperately trying to nip at some meat (the Chambo fish are definitely on the skinny side). The rest of the dishes consisted of chicken curry and chicken masala, soup, salad and fish fillets. 

What a day!


Sep 5 2011

02 Sept 2011, Tanzanite One -> Tan Swiss. 750 kms. 34 C

Last night we had a great braai hosted by staff of Tanzanite One. Was festive evening.

Wake up call: 03h00!! Breakfast 04h00. Lock and Load 05h00.

Luckily the area by the pool was well-lit – so it was unproblematic to pack up camp.

During the night we heard gunshots and because the camp area was beaming with spotlights … we weren’t always sure what the time was. At 01h00 we thought it would be a good idea to rev the bikes and bellow “Lock ‘n Load” outside Sakkie’s tent. We were keen to see how quickly he could get out his tent in the dead of night, pack up his 9-man tent and get onto his bike … next time.

Ullie has two agonies today: really sore shoulder and a hammering head! The shoulder – old injury … nothing that a few anti-inflammatories couldn’t sort out … his head – self-inflicted…

News that James would be joining us in Senge Bay – yeah!

The route:

•Acres of sisal plantations

•Numerous trucks lying off the side of the road. The driving in Tanzania is madness … no consideration for fellow commuters.

•In Mikumi Game reserve … we saw herds of elephants, antelope and giraffes next to the road. K was so captivated – he went off the road to check the game from closer.

Tan Swiss:

A lovely little establishment in the middle of nowhere. It was 19h00 and we were starving – having been up for 18 hrs. Excellent accommodation and our first real shower after 3 consecutive nights of camping.

# Jess and Ray were a bit ill today. Both suspect they may have a touch of malaria … so Coatim it is.

What’s in a number?

1 One great trip
2 Visits to Uganda and Rwanda
3 New fish we have tasted (tilapia, chambo, kipenta); wee stops
4 Ullie’s two injuries, Ken’s knee and Brian’s tummy
5 Crossed the equator
6 Nights camping (1 indoors)
7 Countries we have visited … total punctures Andy has had.
8 Average number of riders
9 Game reserves we have been through; Red Sea + Med Sea + Mt Kili + Mt Meru + Mt Kenya + Nile R + L Vic + L Kivu + L Nakuru
10 Average time we depart before official “L + L” time
11 Total bikers’ punctures
25 Back-up vehicle punctures
600 Kms short of 10 000 km
1000’s Photographs
Numerous Border Crossings; villages
Lots Poverty, happiness, simplicity

Ig:

I Intense story teller

G Golf

N Nice smile

A Awesome mechanic

T Tasty treats in bus

I Intermittent rider

U Undercover whisky

S Stunning eyes

Garth:

G GP

A Avid reader

R Runner

T Traveller

H Hydrate! Hydrate

Marlene:

M Mom to Ken

A Always supportive

R Red wine

L Lovely personality

E Experienced bush-toilet-candidate

N Needs to wee

E Excessive luggage