Cape 2 Cairo 2 Cape Blog

After a quick breakfast at the Tan Swiss hotel, just outside the Mikumi National Park (Tanzania), we were back on the road again. Once again, what was supposed to be a 6:30am (SA time) breakfast and 7:30am departure ended up being a 6:20am breakfast and 6:30am exit (prompted of course by our chief in command, Ray Muller).

Feeling a lot better than the day before (having started a malaria treatment just in case), I jumped at the back of Ullie. We have been on the road two days in a row and the group is certainly feeling the aftermath. We were definitely looking forward to some R&R time in Malawi (in two-day’s time). The plan was to ride until the border (about 524kms) and find accommodation just before entering Malawi at a tea plantation.

The road was absolutely spectacular. Riding on a motorcycle gives you a whole different perspective altogether. You are alert at all times and enjoy an array of aromas that you otherwise don’t get to experience when travelling inside a vehicle. You can smell firewood and charcoal burning, mealies cooking on the grill and rubber tyres smouldering as trucks and busy taxis zoom by you.

We rode through windy roads surrounded by hills, dominated by an incredible Baobab forest. The amazing display of grey baobab trees against the yellow savannah and orange soil was a real treat.

Although Tanzania was very dry, we could enjoy a manifestation of spring colours (green, yellow, orange and red trees and bushes) all along our journey to the border. The terrain was always different, from bushes and trees to marshlands, to savannah, to planted forests.

We passed a very dry section of yellow, savannah hill tops at one point; thorny greyish trees that looked like cobwebs on a yellow canvas. It was extremely warm; almost reminding us of our passage through Egypt and Sudan..giving Sakkie some unwanted flashbacks and Kenny discomfort to say the least!!

Turning left towards the Malawian border, we started climbing up into the highlands; with endless banana and tea plantations, enjoying a bountiful display of valleys and ridges in the distance. Sakkie, unfortunately, had an accident as we were climbing up the mountain. Losing a minute of his concentration, he rode on-top diesel and slid on the tar. He picked up the pieces while Andre sanded down his tyres and got back on his bike like a champion.

The plan all of a sudden changed and we found ourselves coming to the Tanzanian (Mbeya) and Malawian border after 645kms. After getting our passports and visas stamped for exit and entry and after changing currency, we hit the road to Karonga. Hello Malawi!

Sometimes we drive so quickly and for so many hours that we forget to appreciate or even realize that we have yet again crossed another border and another country. It’s only when we stop or arrive at our destination that we truly start reminiscing on our journey and realize how privileged we are to be able to travel Africa and see and experience what not many people have had the opportunity or ever will get the opportunity to see and experience in their lifetime. We are truly blessed.

Malawian people are very friendly. We were greeted by many smiling and cheering crowds; especially the children. As the sun was setting, we passed by children playing football (soccer), virgins walking the streets in their white dresses and crowns and trucks loaded with passengers and nuns singing songs.

We all regrouped at a petrol station while Ray went to see about a place to stay. Our usual hang-out, everyone made themselves comfortable, sitting on the ground at the station, sipping on some fanta and coca-cola. Ray organized us a last minute place to stay, the Sumuka Inn, in Karonga, Malawi. 

I had ridden my record of 700kms today (Yippeee, although my butt wouldn’t agree!). Thanks to Ullie, we arrived safely and had recovered his top case that fell off the bike when we hit a huge pothole just after we entered Malawi.

Everyone gathered in the hallway (our designated bar area) and sipped on a few beers, joking around, reminiscing about the day’s events, and praising Sakkie for taking his fall “like a man”. Ullie spontaneously started the floating trophy procedure. He gave his trophy to Kenny (who had literally changed colours with the heat). Jacques offered his trophy to Sakkie for being a tough boy and just because he felt bad for his injuries.

Marlene gave her trophy to Ray in hopes that the man will calm down and more specifically slow down. Archie gave his floating trophy motorcycle to Marlene, just because! Ray offered his trophy (g-string) to Ullie because he hadn’t listened the first time about tying down his top box. 

The plan for tomorrow: ride another 600kms from Karonga to Mzuzu to Nkhata Bay, to Salima and on to Senga Bay at the Livingstonia Hotel (Sunbird). Only then will we get our R&R time. Rocknroll is predicted for 7am tomorrow morning.

After a yummy dinner, we all headed to our rooms and passed out. Brian had the Chambo fish and after using his fork and knife, resumed to his hands and teeth, desperately trying to nip at some meat (the Chambo fish are definitely on the skinny side). The rest of the dishes consisted of chicken curry and chicken masala, soup, salad and fish fillets. 

What a day!

Glorious morning…stepping out of our tents (rooms for the crew), overlooking the Tanzanite One compound (Kilimangero in the distance but still under cloud cover), pool area, motorcycles and IVECO vans, we enjoyed a 7am omelette breakfast with coffee, tea and juice.

At 8:30am (SA time), we gathered into an office next to the original mine shaft of Tanzanite One, for a geological presentation, given by the chief geologist, Faustus Rutahindurwa and a second geologist, Amos Chakupewa (5 geologists in all).

            Merelani Tanzanite Deposit

            Shallow Marine Environment

            Burial: 30kms & 925ºC

            Deformation events (heat and pressure)

            Tanzanite: 12kms & 650ºC

            Model of JW folding

            Isoclinal folding & ramping structures

            Blocks A, B, C, and D (C is the processing plant)

            Main shaft: deepest at 800 – 824 metres

            The better the concentration of Vanadium, the better the colour; hence the better the stone (blue/violet)

            Hardness: 6.5 (Diamonds being 10.0)

            Heating: 360º – 550ºC

After gearing up in our overalls, belts, gum boots and helmets (with battery powered head lights), and carrying a water bottle, the pick up trucks led by Anton, the underground mine manager, brought us over to the main shaft where they further taught us about the procedures to enter and exit the mine.

It took 3 skips to take us down 800 metres to the bottom of the mine where we were led through tunnels down to the main phase where they were drilling 1 ½ m holes in preparation of the afternoon blasts. The skip ride itself was an adventure. The skip was slanted to a 45º angle; we piled on top of each other (from bottom to top), trying to support ourselves with the very narrow ladder steps provided so as not to completely squash the people under you and were on our way down to darkness.

Slipping and sliding in mud, stepping down on ladders with the help of suspended ropes and iron bars coming out of the ground, we made our way through narrow tunnels and bends..up and down, swallowing thousands of graphite particles in the “air”, drenched by the humidity and sophicating from the lack of oxygen. We came across several miners who seemed quite adapted to their surroundings and to the visibility. It was INCREDIBLE. We came out drenched, black as if coal miners and exhausted, dragging our boots on the ground as miners usually do from a hard day’s work.

We came back to the main compound to shower, take a swim and have a well-deserved drink before some of us went on with the pick-up trucks to go to the processing plant (except for Marlene, Archie and Ray).

The processing plant was very interesting; with its multiple access doors, security gates and cameras and numerous supervisors and managers patrolling. Although Tanzanite One has very sophisticated equipment and machinery doing the processing, at the end of the day, it still uses human labour to sort out the stones. The workers were well-trained and focused on their labour while we toured around and took pictures. They really have an incredible team working here at Tanzanite One and take their job and business very seriously.

K, Ande, Ule, Brian, Andre, Garth and Jacques went ahead (one hour drive) to Arusha to look about while the rest of us went back to the main compound to rest and eat lunch at the cafeteria..a ridiculously delicious goulash with spaghetti and rice.

As the sun is setting, Kilimanjaro is visible in the distance..what a majestic mountain top. We are sitting with our new friends at Tanzanite One, having drinks and a laugh.

We had an amazing and very welcomed traditional SA braai with pap and boerewors…definitely a treat. Ray thanked the Tanzanite One team again and we then proceeded to the floating trophies:

  I gave my floating trophy to Ullie (sexy rider) because of his German stature and broad shoulders and of course, we me at the back of his bike, he looks that much hotter!

  Kenny gave his to Jacques for his humour and for making us life saving capuccinos during the Marsabit road

  Andre gave his trophy to Ray for having worked enormously on organizing the Cape to Cairo/Cairo to Cape 2011 “Recce Run”

  Sakkie gave his g-string trophy to Ig and the crew

  K gave his trophy to Marlene for always being supportive and for taking the strain that comes with travelling on the IVECO van

  Jacques gave his trophy to Archie for continuously working and fixing whatever needs working and fixing and for his life-saving mechanic skills

Tomorrow’s plan: 700kms to Mikumi (Tanzania)

How the Bloggers see the rest of the group members continued:

Kenny:

Keen rider

Endless luggage

New management

Needs sleep

Yucky toes

Ullie:

Uba (the best, the top)

Likes organization (calculated)

Laughter

Intellect

Excellence

Raymond:

Recce Commander

Always Coca-Cola

Yummy buffets

Makes contacts

Organizer

Negotiator

Die Hard

Champion breakfast at Karen Country.

K commented that he would stay at Karen CL – the rest of us could go on.

• Border crossing Kenya: Tanzania …  they wanted to charge is for the carnets – but we were lucky not to have to pay.
• Road from Kikuyu to the highway rather bumpy.
• Saw 2 guys from Cape Town who are travelling across Africa in a fire engine! (and we thought we were barmy?)

At the border we met a couple from Hyde Park … they had travelled to Kenya to see the migration. They organised a top guide for themselves and within 30 minutes they were part of the migration. They managed to get on film: One of the wildebeest cows got washed down the water and was separated from the herd. Its calf was running up and down the bank bleating.

A hippo was in the water watching this. The hippo went to the cow and pushed her towards the bank and then pushed her up the bank to be with her calf… and we say animals aren’t human!

Passed through Arusha where the riders got split up into two group – and both groups got lost. Finally re-grouped at the airport.

14km down a mini-Marsabit road … the rope securing the bullbar on Headhunter snapped … so we had to stop … and had opportunity to get some photos of Masai herders. The Masai always want money to have their picture taken.

Tanzanite One Mine

Great to sleep on the African plains … we are blessed to be able to do this!

Tomorrow – visit the mine and get some R + R in.

Jessica:

J              Jump on Rider

E              Elegant dresser

S              Speaks French

S              Sensitive tummy

I               Internet

C             Camera

A             Active blogger

Andre

A             Adamant collector of stones

N             Numerous photos

D             Docile

R             Recce Photographer

E              Extreme gorilla hike

Jacques

J              Jovial

A             Addicted to sms

C             Cash collector

Q             Queasy food

U             Uncomfortable

E              Expressive

S              Sms