Cape 2 Cairo 2 Cape Blog

We departed from the Karamba Safari Lodge in Livingstone after a couple of riders got tired (and of course prompted by Ray, our commander) of waiting for their breakfasts. Regrouping outside the dirt road, just outside the lodge, we were soon on our way to Kazungula with the stunning Zambezi flowing on our left hand side.

[Expected route: Livingstone – Kazungula – Sesheke – Katima Mulilo (border post into Namibia) – Kongola – Omega – Bagani – Mukwe – Nyangana – Mashari – Rundu (our destination)]

I was back on the bike at the back of Ullie once again, with Archie at the front and K (happy as can be to have been able to fix his KTM and be back on it once again) at the rear with the IVECOs following not far behind.

It started out very cold with the morning mist still rising from the bushveld on either side of the road. It was 9ºC and I was freezing my butt off. However, 100km into our journey and it thankfully started to warm up.

We were all very excited to see wildlife, especially the elephants we had been warned about roaming about and sometimes crossing the road in huge numbers.

Our exit from Zambia went pretty smoothly, but our entry into Namibia was quite lengthy with its usual hassles..police clearance, unannounced road fee, etc., with a drawn out queue. But, this is Africa and patience is a virtue.

The 490km Caprivi stretch was a never-ending road and the heat was bearing down on us as we peeled our layers off one by one at each stop. The bushveld and savannah was extremely dry with bush fires occasionally spreading in the distance. There was no wildlife to be seen…I almost gave Ullie a fright when I excitedly tapped on his shoulder when I saw one elephant in the distance. Sakkie said he also saw a Kudu, but that is as far as our game viewing went.

Nevertheless, it was amazing to know that we were passing a narrow stretch of the Namibian country with Angola to our right and Botswana to the left.

Between Omega and Bagani, we passed over Cubango (that feeds into the Okavango Delta), a beautiful spectacle after such extreme heat and dry environment. Arriving at Rundu, quite a modern and neat looking town, we went to our usual hang-out, the petrol station with surprise, surprise, a good old Wimpy restaurant (making us feel right at home).

After a coffee and the purchase of snacks and water, and after Garth gave Ande an antihistamine for his allergic reaction to a spider bite (probably flew off Kenny’s motorcycle, hanging on its web and slid its way right under Ande’s sleeve as he was driving his bike next in line), we sat down in the parking lot while Jacques and Garth went to see about buying braai meet for our intended bush camp and Ray, Ig and Andre went to buy two new tyres for the trailer.

[Marlene was upset for a while because apparently, they had passed on the road a donkey cart going at high speeds with a dog attached to it by the neck; strangling and struggling onwards as he whimpered. The Headhunter did not stop to help but yet radio contacted Ig and Andre in the Silverback to lend assistance to the dog. Sadly, Ig and Andre did not come across the dog nor the donkey cart]

Unfortunately, pulling out of the petrol station, the Silverback broke down on us. Thankfully, it broke down right across the Rundu Service Centre, where a very accommodating and adamant mechanic called Roelf Lusse, came out to lend assistance. While I was on the phone with IVECO Namibia, Roelf was trying to find out the problem with the Silverback. It came to our attention that it was the body computer and this turned into a huge affair of dismantling the fuse box from the body computer, once, twice and trice; but still no contact.

The rest of the group left to settle into the  Ngundu lodge while Ray and I stayed behind with Roelf and the truck. After two and a half hours, several calls with the IVECO manager, Mr. Westeizen, and several attempts at the body computer, we decided to tow the Silverback into Roelf’s workshop for the night. Ullie and K kindly came back to see if we were okay and to offer us a ride to the lodge.

I thoroughly enjoyed my ride to the lodge as K still had stacks of bags on the back seat of his KTM and I was to climb on top of them and ride VIP, safari style while Ray jumped at the back of Ullie. We arrived at the lodge around 10:30pm (after riding and driving for 10 hours straight) and it was arranged for Gerd, over at the IVECO branch in Ongwediva, to find the corresponding body computer for the truck and bring it over the next day.

At the lodge, everyone had enjoyed an excellent dinner (despite the fact that Ray had said that the group going up toCairohad definitely not enjoyed their food the last time around). There was a group of people who were also doing a Cape to Cairo trip, however, in really cool vintage cars (Mercedes,Sedan, Volvo, Volkswagen, Mustang, etc). It was great to see.

It was a long day indeed, but what an adventure nevertheless!!

[Observation: the more south you go, as fromZambiaonwards, the more enclosed and demarcated the villages]

After a 6am (SA time) wake up call, we enjoyed a breakfast consisting of coffee, tea, toast and the most delicious jam (apricot, strawberry and raspberry), overlooking the Luangwa River (a spectacular view with the river and its sand banks on either side), and separating us from Mozambique on the other side. [I found Jacques loading his bag onto the Headhunter, grunting as the Gorillas do; I suppose to get his mind into gear and more specifically, to get him through the last nine days of the trip]

[Bridge Camp in Zambia, on the Luangwa River: S 15º00’19.1”/ E 30º12’54.7”]

After a rapid check of motorcycle bolts and chains, we were locknloaded and ready to rocknroll at 7:10am, regrouping just above the dirt road on the side of a busy market; with the Luangwa River shining with the early morning’s sun reflection and the Luangwa Bridge in the distance. All the locals were already busy cooking meals, cleaning their areas, trading for goods, carrying their baskets and empty buckets and setting up their stands.

I was, once again, on the back of Ullie’s GS, with Archie at the front of the pack, K at the rear, followed by the IVECO Headhunter (bus with Ray, Jacques, Garth and Marlene) and the Silverback (truck with Ig and Andre).

We went on our way, taking the Great East Road 234kms to Lusaka. It was a beautiful windy road through the hills and then onto straight roads that seemed to never end. We were riding quite well and surely had our game faces on as we were weary of the diesel spills (definitely more cautious with dark patches after Sakkie’s fall).

Zambia is extremely dry with similar South African bushveld and savannah dominating most of the country; with occasional banana patches and a great many thorny trees. It was beautiful to see the contrast of the yellow savannah and dry, crackling sand with spring coloured bushes and trees in the distance.

We stopped to refuel when needed and in one particular town, met a Japanese man who had ridden his bicycle all the way from Cairo, Egypt, with Cape Town as his destination. Now that is intense! In fact, along the windy roads, we had crossed two couples riding their bicycles in the extreme heat, heading to who knows where.

Lusaka is a gorgeous city, with huge highways and jacarandas planted on either side. We definitely felt more at home as we passed by PEP stores, Shoprite and Steers. The traffic wasn’t too bad and with James’ help and leading the way, we took a shortcut through the city to its outskirts.

By the time we took the shortcut, we couldn’t see K anymore. We waited on the outskirts of the city, trying to get radio contact with K and the IVECO’s. After a long wait out in the heat, we saw the IVECOs passing by with K in the Headhunter; having joined the passengers (with his KTM at the back of the Silverback; mostly likely a fuel pump problem).

The bikers got stopped for the second time by the traffic police (being in high numbers with the upcoming elections), for overtaking on a solid line. We were able to talk our way out of the situations with a couple of exchanged laughs and jokes; apologizing and elaborating on how beautiful their country is.

150kms from Livingstone, the paved roads were an absolute pleasure. The riders took the opportunity to take their motorcycles to high speeds (I shrieked with enthusiast as Ullie hit 180-185; and yet still being cautious and focusing on any hazards that could present themselves on the way).

We arrived into the neat, organized and pretty town of Livingstone where we stopped to refuel at a petrol station, neighbouring the newly opened Protea Hotel. We hung out at the petrol station (some relishing their ice-creams from Steers) while Ray and Jacques went to see about accommodation. While we were waiting, two guys from another motorcycle group came to salute us and exchange experiences.

Ray found us a beautiful African lodge/camp just a few kilometres before the Zambezi Sun and the Royal Hotel. We arrived at the Maramba River Lodge just as the sun was setting and were warned by the manager of the roaming hippos and elephants. Some of us got into our luxury tents, others took chalets and the crew settled into the normal tents. The luxury tents themselves were amazing; with outside showers, proper mosquito nets and very cozy bedding.

After a shower and change of clothes, we headed out with the Headhunter to the Zambezi Sun Hotel for their very expensive buffet. It was quite the commercial place with tons of loud tourists; but with a wonderful band playing in the background. Yes, we did bust a few moves out on the dance floor and I, for the first time after 15 plus years inAfrica, tasted my first crocodile. Tastes just like chicken!!

Some of us also exchanged words with Charlie Boorman, who did the “long way around” and “long way down”.

We returned to the Maramba River Lodge ready for another well deserved sleep. We drove 710kms today. Zambia R&R day, here we come..