Jul 11 2011

Day 15

Day 15 Kigali – A little bit of reflection

I was supposed to get 5 guys to write their impressions of the trip so far, and their expectations of the journey to come, but trying to achieve that has proven more difficult than pulling teeth. Day 15 was a rest day in Kigali, and every body took full advantage. Everyone was off doing their own thing, whether it was sitting around all day sleeping, or going on a mission to explore the city.

The other day, a friend of mine asked me what I felt like about the Africa trip so far, so I decided to post exactly what I wrote her. It’s not meant to sound pessemistic or negative, nor am I trying to bash anyone or anything. What I wrote is just what flowed off the tip of my toungue at that very moment which is about as good as a perspective as anyone will get on how I feel about some of these very wonderful and eye opening experiences so far.

 I did add all the photos from the previous blogs, and a very good reflections post from the riders will be up for day 19.

The trips been going very well so far, no serious issues and it would be nice to also have had you on the trip with us. I certainly wouldn’t have minded the extra company in the “young and adventurous” department but I guess socializing “met die ou ballies” has been very entertaining so far with no complaints. I usually don’t write too much about how I feel about things on the blog because I can really get into detail about things and I’d really hate for someone to turn the way I look at things into a best selling book without my knowing. Just joking, but more so because I can rant endlessly about my impressions of Africa and wouldn’t want that to dictate the feel of the expedition or bore everyone to death. But maybe it would be nice to offer an oppinion or two to people back at home, I certainly enjoy listening to how people see the world, maybe I should assume that some people do as well?
I think in general a lot of the reason that I enjoy traveling is because it offers such a unique perspective on how I ultimately look at things. It has changed my life and It’s certainly a personal endevor to learn and grow which is something a lot of people will never be able to unless they actually take the initiative to. Which let’s be honest- a lot of people enjoy the sound of something until it comes to following through, we all do it, but there are definitely only a certain few of us who walk as much as we talk. I expected this trip to blow my mind, and as of now, it certainly has.
Personally I feel like this was my first time of having had the opportunity to see the REAL Africa, what actual 3rd world looks like and where anything goes. I think one of the things I love and hate the most is my feeling toward the people here. It’s a big paradox, as westerners a lot of people go to Africa to seek simplicity which is the way the majority of Africans live. We want to see a place that isn’t stacked with office buildings and green houses but instead with huts and gardens. We strive to get away from modern conveniences and technologies but we’re a cell phone call away from home and to most the people here a bicycle is their only method of getting back to theirs. The big contradiction is that we feel really sorry for these people, but in reality we wouldn’t really be able to live in this “simple” life, even though we so very passionately crave it.

Sometimes I feel like touring a place like Africa is like going to a zoo. You see what you want to see, and you ignore the things you don’t . When you’re there you feel so bad for the animals who fell victim to circumstance yet when you’re at home and enjoying your lavish lifestyle, you don’t think twice about those things you just so recently sympathized with. It feels like there are people who help, but just many more who’d prefer to only watch and not get their hands dirty.

I love socializing with the people that live here, a lot of them are wonderful and so very curious about you and where you come from. The other day I chatted with two guys who initially were trying to hussle me to buy some goods from them, and when I nicely (and logically) explained to them that I didn’t need or want it, they kindly transitioned from sales persons to conversationalists. We talked about South African education, American education, how that in turn relates to income, and also about how they feel about people who don’t work. I think a lot of people approach street sales men and women with a lot of hostility as if they are entitled to not be bothered by someone trying to make a living. I try to acknowledge their situation, smile, and say “no thank you” and most of the time they move on. I think there is a lot less racial tension here, it’s white and black, it’s not white vs. black like it seems to be back in South Africa. The other day a police officer referred to me as “brotha” and another young man in Rwanda was explaining to me how we were all brothers even if i was born in South Africa. We’re all “Africans” he said, I thought to myself, ” yeah you’re right, we’re all just human beings trying to find happiness”. The women are amazing in a sense that they are the harder workers and even the men admit to that, it’s just incredible how different the gender roles are in contrast to the 50/50 lifestyle that we have with such roles at home.

I think the only difference between these people and us is that they live a basic life consisting of only the basic of needs. I think Maslov had it right, once you have everything you need, then you start persuing everything that you want. Most of these people work to get food, work to get shelter, hope to stay healthy, but have no time to think about life like I do, and in a sense I wonder if that’s such a bad thing at all. A lot of these people seem live in conditions to what almost anyone would consider poverty, but I almost want to say that it’s disgraceful to judge someone’s social welfare with a comparison to the amount of stuff that I own. I can’t call someone poor because they live in a house smaller than mine, or because they don’t wear shoes. Poor only exists when there is someone more wealthy to compare it to. Just like “you can’t miss what you’ve never had” I always ask myself “is it okay to intrude into these peoples lives only because our view of a “quality” life is significantly different from theirs? Is it okay that we throw money at problems and pretend that will help them go away, or use religion into the picture and tell them that praying will mend their misfortunes? ” These are just questions that I ask.

A big question that I always ask myself is if you’re going to “Save Africa” how are you going to do it in a proactive way? So that no body gets self relient on the aid that they are given? I figured it’s not such an easy question to answer, but one thing that I have concluded to myself is that we cant take first world mindsets to solve third world problems. We need to approach it from a smaller level and work from there. We need to find something that empowers the people and their community toward an improved future (whatever that may be to their standard) and make it so that as a whole they drive to those goals. I think if we want to contribute to helping people in need we should only support and balance them on their journey, not carry or push them. Helping too much can be a disservice to anybody and it’s something to be aware of from a personal oppinion. I think an emphasis on education and an improvement on infrastructure would be a good start both which have many underlying benefits.

I think about such things from time to time, but they’re really not questions with distinct answers. I enjoy traveling here because it changes the way I think and feel about the world and I from what I’ve heard from some of these guys, it’s had the same effect on them too. Africa is so far out of the norm that writing and some photos will only fill you in on about a third of all the incredible things there are to discover. The roads are their rivers, they bring life to their communities but in turn they bring life to those who travel them.


Jul 8 2011

Day 14

Day 14 Volcanoes National Park
 
 
We sat in bus for 2 hours heading to and from Volcanoes national park which sits right on the border of the Congo, Rwanda, and Uganda. Kerry had made miracles getting us the permits to see them on such short notice usually booked for months at a time. The tickets cost quite a lot of money but I think everybody was happy to pay the 500+ dollars to experience something so unique and real.
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
  
As we arrived at the park, we enjoyed some coffee and waited for our briefings. We were going to be split in groups of 8 and were going to hike up and down the mountain with no time limit except for the hour that you were allowed to spend with the Gorillas. It could take all day to find them, but it seemed like these trackers and guides knew what they were doing, so it was to be the least of my concern. They recommended that we stay at least 7 meters away form the Gorillas which I thought was a stretch, I figured I’d keep a good 20 meters away, I’m young and my eyes work just fine.
We drove to the base of the mountain and then started our trek toward the border of the park. Once we climbed over a 10 ft high stone wall, we were in the jungle but also in the park. The guide first described to us what the Gorillas ate and the sounds they made when being friend or when being aggressive. As we chewed on some watery plant and a bitter piece of bamboo the guide spent his time grunting Gorilla noises at us. “Lunch and a show” I thought, though I couldn’t wait for it to finish because my throat was burning from this dirty plant that I had in my mouth and I wanted to spit it out without seeming rude. 
 

Jungle hiking

 

As we chugged up the mountain we started getting stung by “stinging netals” which just a cute way of describing plants that hammer thorns into your skin as if they were tiny nails. 8 hours after leaving the park my legs and arms were still stinging so I can’t imagine what Rob Noel felt when on his way to having a bathroom break he fell into a big bush of these things while on the steep part of the mountain. Among the nettles we also had black ants biting us left and right, and Rob Noel once again fell victim to this unfortunate series of events.

After what seemed like an eternity we got to a place where we were to leave our bags, we were close to the Gorillas, and we had linked up with the trackers. After a quick break we bundu bashed our way up a way where we finally spotted our first Gorilla eating off the top of a tree similar to how I enjoy eating an ice cream, once huge bite at a time. He some how managed to get his mouth around the entire trunk and then gnawed on that thing like it was a piece of leather. After unloading a clip of snapshots on it I was ready to move on to the big boy section of the visit, the Silver Backs!

Initially they were all pretty much sleeping, and as much fun as that was, it was even more fun when we got a bit of action and one of the Gorillas made an angry gesture and showed us her teeth. I wasn’t too worried, not because I wasn’t scared but because there were about 7 other people in front of me that made better targets than I would. After watching a baby Gorilla play in the trees and watching one laying on it’s back swallowing what looked like a vine and then pulling it back out and repeating, we moved on to where the tracker found 2 more and I got to sit less than 2 meters away from one munching on a tree trunk. You’d swear these things tasted like heaven by the way they ate them, but I beg to differ.

 As we were busy snapping photos at the smaller one of the bigger ones got up and sat behind a bush that was right next to me. If I wanted to I’m sure I could have given it a little back rub but thankfully it didn’t get to that because out of no where the big boy showed up. This massive Silver Back male had fingers that were the size of banannas! and they weren’t the most well kept of things. He sat and posed perfectly for a new minutes and then got up and left. It was a wonderful experience, one that I know made most peoples visit and has been their favorite part of the trip so far.

Silver back

It’s hard to believe that these animals can live to be 45 years old and that not to long ago there were only 600 in the park. In the last 15 years there has been a growth to almost 780 Gorillas in the park with the intent to keep poaching to it’s minimum.I’ll get a few people to post their experiences about the Gorillas as with their experiences of the trip so far for the next post. Each of these experiences was unique to each person, a once in a lifetime adventure that I think every body should treat themselves to.